Ripping into the top

Actually that is probably a poor choice of title.  But I did decide to take a look at the convertible top.  Hopefully no ripping involved.


The pump does not run so I need to figure that out.  Here I pulled the power plug from the pump and put the voltmeter on it.  When I flip the switch I get 12V so the wiring is good.  Looks like that pump will have to come out for a closer look.  Fair warning:  this is not going to end well but I will document the process in case anyone else wants to tear into one of these.


For some dumb-ass reason the bolts holding the pump in are under the curve of the body of the pump so I can only get in there with a socket.  To getI to this last bolt I had to take the others out and rotate the pump.  More good news:  the system is full of brake fluid so now I am getting that all over the place.  Glad the paint is already crap.


Once I got the pump out I drained the reservoir.   This horror is what came out.  Brake fluid, dirt, and bits what appear to be vitally important seals.


The reservoir is held on with a long bolt with a weird triangular head.  I think that is intended to keep morons from mistaking the bolt for the fill plug but anyway it comes off with a normal 11/16″ wrench.   There was still more ugly in the reservoir.  Right here I decided that regardless of how the pump went I was going to pull the rams out and flush out the system.


Here is the pump and motor.  The two holes at the top are the intake ports for the pump.  It looks like there are check valves in there.  But those 5 bolts need to come out so we can see.


Sure enough, there are steel check valves and the gears of the pump.  The check valves redirect the output of the pump to either raise or lower the top depending on which way the pump runs.

vt_20160917_092654The gears slide out easily enough.  The inner gear has a groove near the yellow dot.  There is a matching hole in the motor shaft.  A small ball bearing goes in there to keep the inner gear from spinning on the motor shaft.  The really good news here is that there is not a lot of wear on the gears or the pump housing.  By the way the yellow dots are to help me put it back together the same way it came apart.


Here is the cavity with the ball bearing laying down in the bottom.  At this point I tried to rotate the motor.  It would not turn.  So now I get to dive into that.


Two long screws on the end of the motor hold the whole thing together.  They were a bit of a challenge.  Turns out steel screws in aluminum for 50 years get a little seized.  But I got them lose and pulled the end of the motor off.  Well this is not good….

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This is hideous.  The bottom of the motor and the brush plate are both caked with old grease and crap.  By the way there is a ball bearing in the end of the motor shaft that I tried very hard to lose.  Time for some parts cleaning!

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vt_20160917_102341  vt_20160917_102350

I carefully cleaned everything with kerosene then rubbing alcohol.  The motor does not look too bad.  All the coils have continuity.


Time to reassemble and see what I have.  I started with a clean piece of cardboard and laid out the parts.


I put the motor shaft into the motor.  I greased up the bushing and put the ball bearing in the end of the shaft.  Now comes the tricky part.  I have to get the brushes over the commutator.   It took about three tries.  Then more fooling around to get the long screws started in the holes in the pump body.


Moment of truth time!  I used this 12v battery from my old drill to test the motor.  It ran like a top!  Both directions worked.  Great!  Lets assemble the pump.


Here is the inner gear and the bearing that locks it onto the shaft.  I was not sure how to assemble this.  There may be a better way but this worked. I propped the motor up so the cavity for the bearing was pointed up and used a little grease to glue the bearing in.  It went right in.


I put the check balls in and lubricated everything with automatic transmission fluid. Which is what I will use to replace the brake fluid.


Boom!  Done.  At this point I was feeling pretty good about this.  But before I went any further I decided it was time to test the pump again.  I hooked up my battery and the pump tried to run then the wires got really hot.  I suspect a short in the motor coils.  In hindsight I might have screwed up using alcohol to clean out the motor.  If there was shellac in there insulating the coils I probably washed it off…


I took the pump cover back off just to make sure the motor is still free. It is.  So this is a fail.  I can probably get the motor rewound but I have been looking around and it seems like all convertible pumps are pretty much the same.  I may see about grabbing another pump from a junkyard.  The motor for a Chrysler Sebring or Ford Mustang should work just fine.  I am only worried about the sizes of the fittings on the pump.


Meanwhile I am going to pull the rams out and flush out the old fluid.  The remains of the interior trim will have to come out first.


The armrest bolts through the trim into the fender well.  It has not been off in a LONG time.  Both bolts broke off immediately.  One is just a bolt.  The other (on the right in the picture) screwed into a plate riveted on the plastic frame.  I will probably drill out the rivets and replace the plate with a bolt.


All the screws holding the panel on came out except these two in the floor.  They are rusted in there and will not turn.  Eventually I decided to just grind the screws off.  I got the Dremel tool out and went to work.  The kicker is that when I got the heads off the screws the panel plastic was shattered around them.  So I could have just left well enough alone.




This pile of fun was behind the panel.  I fished out the fragments of the panel and threw the rest away.


Now I can get at the cylinder.  In hindsight I probably could have done this with the panel in place.  I might do that on the other side.


Here is the cylinder and the fluid I got out of it.  The good news is the cylinder feels pretty good.  But I am out of time for today so the other side and cleaning the lines will have to wait.

Really finishing up the steering column


Nice cool day today so I put the steering wheel together.  I forgot to take a picture of the horn switch installed.  The horn switch works the whole series of wires, brushes, and rusty-ass contacts means the horn does not get enough juice to sound reliably.  More on that later.


The right turn signal indicator in the gauge cluster is not working.  I popped the bulb out.  The bulb tests good so I cleaned the contacts and it works now.


My buddies at Amazon delivered a new electronic flasher.  In this really fuzzy picture you can see the flasher and the power lead I made for it.  This will run from the accessory terminal on the ignition switch and feed the turn signals.  The old flasher and it’s constant power will run the hazard lights.


Here is the mess dangling under the dash.   This will all get cleaned up later. The electronic flasher has a dedicated ground wire which I stuck under a convenient screw.


This is the reason I put the electronic flasher on the turn signals.  I also bought these LED tail light bulbs on Amazon.  They are supposed to have Cree LEDs in them but I have my doubts.  Anyway since these bulbs draw a lot less current than incandescent bulbs the old mechanical flasher is likely to have problems.  So I put it on the hazard lights which are both less important and have all 4 bulbs blinking to maximize the current.


There is only one problem.  The LED bulbs are too loose in the sockets.  You can see in this picture that the LED contacts do not stick out as far and the latching pin is a little closer to the bottom of the bulb.  So if I am going to use the LED’s I will have to revisit the stupid light sockets again. Not tonight.


Last stop is the horn.  I took it off the car and cleaned up the contacts.  This is an original Sparton “beep beep” Jeep horn and once it is working it might be my favorite thing about the car.  However we are going to need a relay to get it working reliably.   But that is enough for one night.  I just reinstalled the horn.

Tail light/electrical part 2


While the tail lights are out of the way I can do a little rust mitigation.  I cleaned up inside the rear corners then I masked off the holes and sprayed rust converter inside wherever I could.  But it was hard to get all the nooks and crannies.  I gave it a day to cure then painted with rust encapsulating paint.

Continue reading “Tail light/electrical part 2”

Chasing electrical gremlins

Since I am still fighting with the carburetor I decided to do something that would actually make some forward progress.  Lighting on the car is not working very well at all.  Taillights are not working and only one front indicator light is working (intermittently).  So I figured I would do some troubleshooting on that.

Continue reading “Chasing electrical gremlins”

More electrical issues

So after finally getting the Jeep back on all fours and the engine buttoned up the stupid thing refused to crank.  So last night I started troubleshooting.  My general plan was to turn the ignition on and see if I had voltage at the coil.  If not I would work back from there.

I found no voltage at the coil and was just starting to work my way back when I saw smoke curling out of the ballast resistor.   That was a big shortcut for my troubleshooting.


It took some careful work with Vice-Grips and a wrench to get the rusted terminal nuts off.  I neglected to take pictures but here is me holding the resistor near where it mounts to the firewall.  The green wires attach to the resistor.


And here is the problem.  There is a break in the resistor inside the red circle.  Sometimes the two halves touch each other and life is good.  Other times the innards touch the metal bracket and short the ignition system to ground.  I am trying to find a replacement.  I hate to buy one because this thing is going to be bypassed when I get an electronic ignition installed.  On the other hand it is a $5 part…