So when I crawled under the dash the first thing I realized is that the wiring is a hot mess. Splices, odd connections, and in-line fuses everywhere. In fact this car does not have a fuse block at all. Everything is in-line or maybe not fused at all (cue sinister music here). This is going to be a serious task on the TODO list.
But for now I just want PART of the electrics to work. I naturally gravitated to the ignition switch. Pardon the pictures here. I was doing this one-handed while wedged between the two shift levers.
So as best I can figure battery power is tied to the top terminals (yellow wires for some damn reason). The bottom contacts are active when the ignition is on (so coil, gauges, etc). The wire coming of the “S” terminal is purple so it is a safe bet that it attaches to the middle terminal.
I pulled the main connector off and did some testing. Turns out when the key is set to the start position the center and leftmost terminals are connected. Which means there should be continuity between the red wire with the white stripe and the positive battery terminal. But there is not. So now I get to play detective.
I traced the main power wire from the starter terminal to this connector on the firewall. We have continuity to here! A note about testing. To this point I have been using the continuity function of my multi-meter. One end is tied to the positive battery lead (which is disconnected) and I probe with the other end. If there is continuity the meter beeps and reports the resistance in ohms. This is save because I can’t short anything out and start a fire. It is also convenient because I don’t really have to look at the meter, just listen for the beep. However really what I want to know is how much voltage is getting to where I am going so I will probably wire up the battery and start using the voltage function of my meter going forward. What can possibly go wrong?