Time to wire up the top motor. This is where I think I want to put them. This up under the dash on the left side above the kick panel. The main circuit breaker is just over on the right with all those red wires going into it. That reinforcing bar running across there looks like a fine place to mount some relays.
The thing is I would rather not drill any holes to mound this. So I dug around in my scrap metal and found this bit of sheet steel. I think it is part of an old floppy drive of all things. I measured out a strip about two inches wide.
The idea is to make a hook that clamps to the top of that reinforcing bar. To give it some spring I mounted a long screwdriver in vice and bent the strip around it.
After some bending and cutting I ended up with this. I test fit it and marked the length so screws would not interfere with the structure of the car. I marked the holes and drilled them.
Two sheet metal screws and the mounting is done.
I am putting the wiring diagram in here so the kids can play at home.
The first two wires are the wires that will run from the coils of the relay (86) to the switch. These will route power to the up or down relay depending on which way the switch is pulled. Here are the spade connectors that will connect to the switch. I only had one insulated connector. I will put shrink tube over the other one.
Notice the relay sockets are marked down and up. Next I need to hook up the leads for battery power. The two yellow wires tie to the normally open contact of the relays (87). The yellow wires will get power from the circuit breaker via the red wire with the inline fuse. Here I have the wires stripped and twisted together.
I soldered the wires. I used that pair of forceps to keep the shrink tube from getting too hot. Then I put the shrink tube in place and got it too hot 🙂
The other end of the power wire gets a ring terminal to tie to the circuit breaker.
Next are the ground wires. The black wires are the coil grounds (85) and the red wires are the normally closed contacts on the relay (87a). Those contacts will provide the grounds for the motor.
I soldered all these wires to a foot-long 14 gauge wire. Eventually that wire will go to some handy ground under the dash. The problem is I don’t have any shrink tube the right size to insulate this joint. I will have to get some.
The two blue wires will connect the normally open contacts (87) to the existing power leads going back to the pump. These make spade connectors will attach to the connectors that used to connect to the switch.
Here is the end result. I taped up the wire bundles and as soon as I get some more shrink tube I will install and test this. I am pretty happy with it.